In the cosmetic OEM process, some anti-aging ingredients are used. The history of humankind's search for anti-aging drugs to achieve immortality is almost as long as the history of human civilization. The question of whether aging can be "counteracted" or "reversed" remains unresolved. However, the generally accepted view is that aging can be delayed through various means or measures. Natural anti-aging cosmetic ingredients (or natural anti-aging drugs) have the effects of delaying skin aging, protecting the skin, prolonging life, and reversing aging. According to the physicochemical properties of anti-aging drugs, they are generally divided into the following categories:
(1) Anti-aging chemical drugs: antioxidants (such as vitamin E, vitamin C, chlorhexidine, etc.), antioxidant enzymes (SOD, etc.), immunomodulators (such as thymosin, PHA, etc.); biochemical preparations (such as nucleic acids, sialic acid...) (1) Anti-aging agents (such as Cerebrolysin, Evodia rutaecarpa, etc.).
(2) Natural anti-aging drugs: anti-aging plant drugs (such as ginseng, Acanthopanax senticosus, Rhodiola rosea, wolfberry, etc.), anti-aging animal drugs (such as deer antler, placenta, honey, gecko, etc.); anti-aging mineral drugs (such as maifanite, yangqi stone, etc.), etc.
(3) Anti-aging dietary preparations: anti-aging ancient prescriptions (such as Qingchunbao, Huanjingjian, Guilingji, Liuwei Dihuang Jiu, etc.); anti-aging Chinese herbal compound prescriptions (such as Yishoukang, Weierkang, pollen preparations, etc.); other anti-aging compound prescriptions (such as Centyum, Cobidec capsules, etc.).
1. Mechanisms of Aging
Aging is a complex damaging process. Although there are many theories of aging, the free radical theory and the immune regulation disorder theory are currently the most studied. Free radicals produced by metabolism act on polyunsaturated fatty acids in cell membranes, forming lipid peroxides (LPO), causing cell damage and destruction, leading to aging and disease. Superoxide dismutase (SOD) and glutathione peroxidase (GSH-Px) have the function of scavenging free radicals and can reduce the damage of free radicals to the body. Many studies have confirmed that the activity of SOD and GSH-Px in animals and humans decreases with age. The function of the internal immune system declines with age. The activity of anti-aging drugs can be determined by measuring biochemical indicators related to aging, such as skin SOD activity, lipid peroxides, and lipofuscin content.
The mechanism of aging is complex. From a genetic perspective, it is a congenital genetic trait that, according to the body's own biological clock, leads to aging. From an acquired perspective, aging is mainly caused by interference from various destructive factors in the cosmic and internal/external environments that disrupt the body's biological clock (lifespan clock, genetic clock). Anti-aging drugs can delay aging and protect the skin from free radical toxicity.
2. Common Natural Anti-Aging Drugs for Skin and Hair Diseases
Jasmine: Moisturizes hair and skin, has a fragrant aroma and promotes hair growth. Pomelo and osmanthus flowers have similar functions.
Plum and Kernel: Moisturize and brighten skin, remove dark spots and blemishes.
Prunus armeniaca: Its fruit can be used as a hair dye to turn gray hair black and has anti-hair loss properties.
Salted Bran: Whitens skin, promotes hair growth, and removes dandruff.
Magnolia officinalis: Removes brown spots on the face, promotes hair growth, and when used as a facial cream, makes skin shiny and moisturized.
Pogostemon cablin: Stems and leaves can remove vitiligo, brown spots and blemishes on the face, and various boils and lumps.
Ligusticum striatum: Can be used as a facial cream to treat rosacea, acne, and rheumatism.
Polygonum multiflorum: Removes facial sores, darkens hair, and makes skin shiny and radiant.
3. Research and Product Development of SOD-like Compounds
SOD is the only protease in the body that scavenge superoxide anion free radicals. Its activity and content are closely related to aging. However, SOD also has its limitations: ① large molecular weight, making it a hapten; ② difficulty in crossing cell membranes to enter cells; ③ short half-life; ④ unclear absorption mechanism, etc., which limit the widespread application of SOD. In recent years, research has been conducted on a class of compounds that have the same function as SOD but are not SOD. These compounds are called SOD-like compounds, and their O2- scavenging effect is called SOD-like activity. (Activity).
SOD-like compounds in traditional Chinese medicine and plants are usually a class of natural small molecule compounds. Examples include vitamin C, vitamin E, carotenoids, flavonoids, saponins, tannins, lignans, terpenes, and alkaloids. These compounds have low toxicity, are easily absorbed and utilized, and have good stability.
There are many methods for determining SOD-like activity, mainly including electron spin resonance, chemiluminescence, spectrophotometry, and polarographic oxygen electrode method. The first is a direct method, while the latter three are indirect methods.
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